Un Año Despues

Orgullo, a photo by jtobiason08 on Flickr.

I can't believe that it has been a year since I returned from Peru.  That is a statement that I can hardly believe myself.  Has it really been that long?  Has it gone that fast?  Has it really passed by?  Have i lived in 2 homes, been jobless, volunteered for months, found a job, been on a few retreat, bought a camera, made friends, written thousands of emails, posted thousands of pictures?  Has that really happened?

It is a little strange to be writing another 'one year later' post.  I remember the sentiment I held while writing my lament of a year after CASP.  In that post, I missed the community, the people, the heat, the fact that I was a college student being challenged to look at the world through a lens that I didn't know existed.  It was an exhilarating experience.  Then to look back on that a year later in the blandness of Spokane while working, just didn't cut it.

But Peru was different.  Rather than being a life shattering, path changing, I'm never going to be the same type of person ever, it was a time to solidify who I was.  It was a period that took so many lessons from that CASP trip and gleaned the ones that really mattered out and helped me to become who I was supposed to be.  It showed me how to really be the ideals I held and how to be with the people with whom I held them.  I really practiced inter-cultural relations and experienced life abroad without the safety net of other upper middle white college students standing at my side.  I grew to thrive in a family that I hold nearly as deep as the one that I'm related to by blood.  I grew to find another land that I really knew the history, geography, language and even pop culture of.  There were days when I felt separate.  There were days when I felt like I was in the middle of things, but more Peru taught me to be at home.  It taught me to walk down the streets with a smile on my face and constantly looking for the good and the unique in the mundane.  That may have  just been a bit of naiveté or even the photographer's eye, but it became part of who I was.

So now a year separated from that experience, I still love the moments of walking down my street and seeing the beauty in the normalcy.  I am enthralled by the wrinkles on a bus driver's face in the window.  Happy when I hear a song that just doesn't fit the vehicle it is being pumped from.  I'm happy to smile at children and to soak in that sea breeze.

This isn't to say that this year has been all roses.  I spent some dark days on unemployment.  Some lonely nights reading.  I've even passed a few days that made me question why I'm answering technical questions about computer games from middle aged women.  But, when it comes down to it, Peru solidified who I am outside my comfort zone to the point that I re-entered that area and being in Seattle kicked me around in that zone until I really made it my own.

So, I cannot proceed without thanking those who brought me through the Peruvian and Seattle experiences. Thanks to the friends of old who have stuck by me and the new ones who have built up around.  Thanks to The family who has supported me in who I am.  Thanks to that wonderful girl I get to date who makes me smile and thanks to a city that I'm happy to call my own.

So, you may be wondering, why this photo?  What does a woman holding out a hat have to do with a year in Seattle?  For me, it's all about pride in who you are.  That is actually the name of the photo, 'Orgullo' or pride in Spanish.  This woman, Vincinte de la Cruz, is a member of the Huayanay Artisan Community in Huayanay, Huancavelica, Peru and this photo is especially special to me because her pride in her work on this alpaca hat just shines through her squinted eyes.  Each line on her face speaks volumes of the trials she has endured and the years at 13,000 ft above sea level that she has lived.  But through that, she is who she is and she was so happy to share it with me.  This is how I feel a year later. I don't have the wrinkles to prove it and maybe I dont have an alpaca hat, but I'm a more sure of who I am and I'm proud of that.

Good Friday

It has been one year since I stood in the streets of Ayacucho watching the processions of Jesus and Mary flow thought the streets.  Since we watched hours of painstaking perfection as beautiful alfombras were created on the ground for the sole purpose of being trampled on.  It seems like it has been forever and yet it feels like yesterday.  This experience of seeing the beauty of this outward expression of gratitude to Jesus and recognition and understanding of the suffering that he went through will stay with me forever.  But this experience was more than just a religious holiday or chance to be in the normal life of Peruvians, but was a look into the heart and the mind of the Peruvian faith.  This was it's day to shine and to step out of the darkness and point to the creator of all.  In this city can be pointed to, as the beginning of so much pain and suffering (the Shining Path started in Ayacucho), the real reason for it's existence and with great faith pointed toward a higher calling.  It is now known as the Latin American Capital of Holy Week, but forever will simply be where my heart is during the suffering of Christ.  Forever, when I think of his sacrifice, it will be carried across those cobblestone streets and through this candle filled square, but on to higher and better.  So, as I saw one part in the resurrection of Ayacucho, I too saw the resurrection of Jesus and how he had inundated the lives of so many and that there was lots left to do, but good was present.

No Meat

No Meat, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

This is oddly enough not related to my vegetarianism, but just happens to be Erika's non-meat cutting board. This, among many others, is one of the photos that I'm enjoying with my new DSLR. It is a strange situation to take skills that I had developed (film joke) with my manual/film cameras and use those in the way that I use my digital. I am thankful for all the things I learned and am really having fun with the camera and the digital darkroom. I'm sure there is lots of photos to come because of this new partnership.

On a completely different note, I saw Ira Glass of This American Life today heading into someone's house near Greenlake. I was sooooo excited. I am acutely aware and repidly reminded of how nerdy this type of star sighting is, but don't care. That program was one of my main connections with the US during my time in Peru (along with Wait Wait Don't Tell Me). So, Ira, though you will never read this blog, thank you!

Selling sweets

Selling sweets, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

I am coming to the end of my Peruvian photos. This is strange because this blog has only been centered around that part of my life for so long that I am not quite ready to let go of it and allow US photos to begin to fill its space, but I also have lots of new thoughts and experiences to begin to share through text and more photographs.

So first, I want to thank my readers. I have been so blessed to have people who were committed to reading my random thoughts and trying to live a little bit of my life. Thank you to those who made my experience a reality and a great season of my life. And thank you to those who continue to shape my life. You have helped this to happen and will continue into the future.

I do need to note that this will not be my final, last, never again Peruvian photograph, but I'm going to begin to try new things. I started a new job yesterday (customer service at Big Fish Games) and so it is time to really dive into this new season. So thanks to everyone and keep reading and viewing the photographs that are changing my life, no matter where I am.

Voting

Voting, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

During my last trip through the Andes with the Red Uniendo Manos, we were privileged enough to go to an event put on by CEDEPAS. This was a summit for local organic farmers to come together and share their experiences and best practices. This photo is the members of the event voting to officially open the day which is a tribute to the extreme formality of Peruvian NGO work. It was impressive to see these workers and the way that they lived their lives both individually and as a community and is very inspiring to see what CEDEPAS is doing to promote healthy farming practices in the region.

Inca Kola

Inca Kola, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

Inca Kola is the national pop of Peru. It used to be its own company and was one of the only national brands in the world that could stand up against coke in popularity. For a long time, no matter what kind of marketing or ads that Coke put in the country, it could not outsell Inca Kola. So, in order to fix this problem, Coke just bought it. Coke and Inca Kola are generally the only options at a restaurant. It is not unheard of for a Peruvian to say, "Quiero Inca, no queiro el imperio" or "I want Inca, I don't want the empire." Peruvians still hold on to Inca Kola as theirs and think of Coke as the carbonated Galactic Empire. It hard to describe the taste of Inca Kola. It kinda tastes like the child of bubble gum and cream soda, but extremely sweet. When I first got to Peru, I hated Inca, but by the end I found it tolerable and a good partner to ceviche because the sweetness of the drink really helped to balance the bitterness of the lemon cooked fish.

On Camera

On Camera, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

This photograph of Vanesa was from one of our early trips to La Oroya, long before CAMBIALO took on that name. She is recording a personal bio. She was so nervous then but was so glad to be in front of the camera by the time I left. That just warms my soul to see the kids grow.

The Rememberance of Putis is Almost Forgotten

The Rememberance of Putis is Almost Forgotten, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

During the Peruvian period of violence, there were many atrocities. One of the most horrendous was in the town of Putis, near Ayacucho. The government believed the village to be supporters of the Shining Path, the communist revolutionaries. One day, soldiers came into the town and told everyone that they were together going to dig new latrines or a foundation. So they happily gather everyone together to start working. All day the town worked to prepare the plot. Then when it was dug, the soldiers opened fire, killing an estimated 123 people, many of whom were children. Then they quickly filled it in and Putis was forgotten in the mass grave of horrible memories from this period.

As part of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission's work, the mass grave in Putis was unearthed and many were identified. Last August, a mass burial was held for the community as a healing. This poster is an advertisement for the event. For more information, click here for the Truth and Reconciliation Commission and Wikipedia.

Stateside for 2 weeks, where did it all go?

I case you haven't heard, I came back to the US on July 27th.  If you read this, I would love to hang out with you at some time.  My cell phone is the same as before.  If you don't have it, just send me an email.

But it is strange to be sitting at my parent's house writing this email looking out on my Mom's garden and listening to the newest Vampire Weekend album on my stereo which I set up in the family room upon returning.  This led to this short exchange:

Mom: "having music is great, I should have used it more often."
Joe: "It has only been set up for an hour and a half"
Mom: "oh......"

Joe and Erika after Sounders game

Since getting back to the US, I have gone out to Mexican food at El Charo (the best Chicken Mole ever!), had friends over for an epic welcoming, relaxed, family reunion, a week in Seattle, more friends over, a Peruvian dinner, a Mariners game, a Sounders game, hung out in Seattle and tomorrow head off to Vancouver for Cherise and Cory's wedding.  My life has been pleasantly busy.

But where did it all go?  I have this sentiment often when I travel where upon return, I feel as if it were all a dream.  I know that it isn't.  I know that the memories are real.  I can hold the negatives which prove that I took this picture, but it just went so fast.  And it is strange that it is the same season as when I left because it feels as if the world just paused here.  This is compounded by the fact that I am not in Spokane or at Whitworth now.  I am spending more time in Seattle.  My college friends are around, but not down the hall.

Vanesa, Lady, and Jhohana from CAMBIALO

But there are the things that make me remember it all.  I use a picture of Vanessa, one of the kids from the CAMBIALO project as my bookmark to remember those kids and what they mean to me every time I sit down to read.  Every article of clothing I purchased in Peru brings back memories whenever they slip over my extremities.  I was blessed by 14 people coming to a small celebration of my year at my parent's house last weekend of which I got to go through pictures, music, stories and some food (still eating those leftovers).  Of course my facebook is every other between english and spanish comments and photos.  It is still real.

So that is the dichotomy that I get to sit between.  I have said before that, to me, "home" is not a location, but rather the place where you feel connected to your community and now my "home" spans 2 continents.

So, I will continue to blog off and on.  I will not send the email updates as I have during my time in Peru, with exception of more important things.  This blog will still be full of my thoughts and experiences and pictures.  Thank you for yours this year.  Lets keep it up!

Graphing my life

There is a blog called GraphJam.  The author creatively makes graphs to describe his life.  I thought it would be fun to do the same for mine.

Amount of food eaten at meals

Contact with alpacas

Lima buses

Computer use

Likelihood of when parties held in the office end

I finally made it out of Huancaveica with all of my cameras

I know this title comes as a surprise.  Take it in.  I didn't get anything stolen.

Machu Picchu

This year has really blessed me in the form of how much travel I have been able to do and the wonderful people that I have gotten to know.  The end of May and early June brought me back on the road once again.  It started with a wonderful week of vacation which included the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the town of Paracas, and an Alianza Lima game.  What made this even better was that my wonderful sister Callie and buddy Scott came down to do those with the other YAVs and me.  It was great and if you want more stories, check out Baja, Ginna, or Alissa's blogs and more pics as always on my flickr and facebook.

the destroyed catheral in Pisco

Immidiately following vacation, I headed out on the road again with a group from the Hudson River Presbytary in New York (for their blog of the trip, click here).  They had come to get to know the work being done by the Red Uniendo Manos and its partners.  This meant that we were going to do the same tour we did in September with another group.  Have I really been here long enough to be leading the same trip again?  Is my time really starting to close out in the same way it began?  They started in the city of Chincha and saw how it is slowly rebuilding after the 2007 earthquake and once again we slept in a hotel in the shadow of the condemned cathedral in Pisco where more than 200 people lost their lives during mass because of the same earthquake.  But, even in my short time that I have been in this country, that town has begun to rebuild (including meetings with partner organization CEDEMUNEP which is quoted in this article on peruvian racism by the BBC).  It seemed much less desolate than it did 8 1/2 months ago.  The central square seemed more put together.  There was a new foot traffic only street that was a lighted brick path away from this town.  I hope that some day I can go back again and be surprised once more of the change that is happening in this devestated town.

The next day was travel.  Just travel.  On a good day, it is 10 hours from Pisco to Huancavelica.  It took us a little more.  This trip rises up from sea level to 16,000 ft before dropping back down to the town at 13,000.  We got stuck trying to visit a village that was unifying to fight for their water rights.  We stopped for cocoa tea in a random town on the side of the road where the patrons of the restaurant were surprised to see 13 gringos walk in and interrupt their evening soap operas.  I was also struck with how much I have traveled this year by the ease of this trip.  16,000 feet, no problem.  14 hrs in a bus, so what?  Un-paived roads, that is just a butt massage. 

Our day in Huancavelica was spent in meetings.  Once again we had the opportunity to share the work being done by our partner ATYPAQ on local economic growth and environmental rights.  We also met with the women of the artisan group "El Mercurio" (meaning "mercury," a nickname given to the town of Huancavelica during its early mining years because of the high amounts of mercury used to extract the ore).  I have had the opportunity speak with the women of this organization a few times and it never ceases to amaze me to hear their response to the question "how has working with fair trade changed your lives?"  Translating this answer back from the president of El Mercurio, Yodi, to the group almost brought me to tears:

"It has done three things for us: First, it has brought more financial opportunitites to our families.  Before we didn't have any extra money, but now we have more to use for the futures of our family.  Secondly, it has made our husbands respect us more.  At first they didn't want us to be involved in this project because they thought we couldn't do our domestic work, but now they see the value of our work and value us more.  And finally, it has taught us to value ourselves more.  We now see our own worth and our self-esteem has greatly increased because we know that we can do this work.... It is also a place where we can come together to share the jokes, stories, joys and pains with each other."

I am truly impressed by the work of these women and the difficulties that they have overcome to become what they are now and who they will continue to become.  Also, they make really awesome stuffed llamas.

From there, we went on to the city of Huancayo for meetings with Red partner CEDEPAS.  As so often happens in this world, it was more than we could have hoped for.  The day we happened to be there, was also a farmers celebration put on by CEDEPAS to celebrate organic farming with a fair, dance, and lunch held in the middle of a field.  We had no idea this was going to happen, but it allowed us to show the real work and connections being done by local NGOs here in Peru.  We also got to see the operations of the Archbishop of Huancayo and the Catholic Church's local involvement in seeking a healthier environment in the region.

A member of CAMBIALO, her name is Lady

Our last day of the trip brought us back to La Oroya.  This city will forever have a special place for me because I have gotten to know so many wonderful people who have dedicated their lives to the struggle to make it a better place.  This day we were blessed to meet with the members of Filomena and a few of the childrens group CAMBIALO and discuss their pasts, presents, and futures.  This is a city that has good people working for good reasons.  I know good changes will come and you will hear about it when they do.

But this was my last group.  I have gotten to see a lot of Peru through the four that I have had the opportunity to travel, live, laugh, translate, and work with.  So to each of you that have made the pilgrimage down here, thank you.  You all have helped me become who I am becoming and I hope that we have helped you grow too.  It is strange writing the word "last" into any blog, but time is coming to an end which is sad, but for now I must just be grateful.

Good question

First, I cannot figure out the problems with the formatting of my blog, please deal with it and continue reading. On my previous post about our survey on La Oroya, "Alice" posted very valid questions on the situation with the company.  I started to reply, but realized that in order to truly and acuately reply, I needed the capabilities of links that making a new post altogether allow.  So, I will first post "Alice"´s thoughts and then my replies and I encourage you to become involved in this discussion.  Please post and I will be happy to try my best to respond.

Hi, Joe!

The "fill out THIS SURVEY" link near the bottom is broken, but the others seem to work.

Also, though it's pretty clear that the company doesn't DESERVE any extensions, waiving of fines, etc., it still might be in the best interest of La Oroya to keep cutting them a little slack. What would happen if the State dug in its heels, refused all the contract changes and extensions requested by the company, and then it turned out that the "financial crisis" wasn't a fake excuse so they could escape responsibility? What if it turned out that the company was truly unable to meet the demands put forth by the various laws and contracts? Would the company go under, and if so, what would that mean for their workers and for the cleanup effort? Would the government receive enough collateral/compensation from Doe Run to take the plant over and modernize it? Probably not, if Doe Run didn't have the cash to do it themselves. If the plant closed indefinitely because no one had the money to modernize it, would that be enough to fix the environment in La Oroya, or would additional cleanup be needed? Would simply closing the plany be an improvement at all?

Obviously, the State can't grant extension after extension indefinitely and expect to get anywhere, and obviously Doe Run doesn't deserve any favors. But fixing the situation may not be possible without the company being involved and continuing to be profitable. And that might not be possible unless they are cut some more slack.

I answered the survey assuming that Doe Run can bear the burden of sticking to the original agreements. But my actual advice to the State would be, give Doe Run the minimum amount of slack you can. Get someone in there to verify the financial situation, and then hold the company to as many of its contracts and responsibilities as you can without sending it under - unless you're willing to see it go under.

Now - as someone who knows way, way more about this than I do - let me have it. What are the problems with my reasoning? But please remember that I in no way think that the company deserves to be cut any slack. If justice alone was the only question, I'd be all for the State digging in its heels and, if need be, squeezing Doe Run for every cent they can legally get, to atone for the damage the company's done. I'm just not convinced that this approach would be enough to actually fix the problem.

 And my response:

First you do make a valid point in emphasizing the importance of having the Doe Run smelter open in La Oroya.  There are approximately 3,500 people who work at the plant and in a town of a little under 20,000 residents, that is a very important population (espicially when you take into account that the 20,000 includes families).  We do NOT want the plant closed.  We want it open.

Your next question was whether the company would actually go under.  I do not believe so.  Doe Run Peru (DRP) is a subsidiary of the RENCO group who, according to bnet.com had $3.5 billion in sales last fiscal year.  Click this link for another assessment of RENCO during a point in which they were interested in purchasing SAAB  On Doe Run Peru´s website, the boast that in 2007, they were Peru´s fourth largest exporter with net sales of nearly $1.5 billion.  The owner is a man named Ira Rennert who, according to a Forbes 3/2010 report, named him the 144th most wealthy person in the world with a net worth of $5.9 billion.  I understand that Mr. Rennert would not want to put his own money into the company, and there would be no legal framework that would make him put his personal fortune out to fix the problem (though that would really make life nicer).  DRP operates by purchasing the unrefined materials, mostly from peruvian mining operations, then refining and reselling the refined material on the open market.  The company claims that the current situation is blamed upon the fall of world wide zinc prices (the prices is the blue line).  That is true, the prices fell (as did prices for lead, copper, alluminum and other metals) and in 2009, they hit their lows (after having been at all time highs in 2007).  But these prices have gone back up.  DRP has a deal with another mining operation, the Swiss Glencore.  News of this came out in march, but little has been published since then.

So when it comes down to it, Doe Run Peru did take a hit financially during the world financial crisis, but the numbers do not suggest that it is a hit that should cripple the company nor be something that their previous gains should be able to sustain.  A business should not be allowed to reap the gains when they are winning and then throw up their arms in defeat as soon as hard times come by.  There is still money in the pipeline but DRP is using this time to try and eliminate their responsibilities.  This is the letter sent by DRP to the Minister of Energy and Mines about their "requests."   Please click this link and read the letter before continuing

1) Indemnification - I don´t know the framework of what this means.  I wish I did (and if anyone out there does, please respond)
2) tax - DRP is asking to pay their massive tax debt back over time instead of at once.  They owe over $760 in taxes.  It is understandable that this company cannot pay them back at the moment.  They have recieved some economic hits and it would be unreasonable to ask for it all at once, but according to ministers, the company is asking for a schedule to pay it back in unreasonable amounts of time.  Also, how did this even happen?  How did the Peruvian government fail at getting these taxes?  I wish I had an answer to these questions.
3) Environmental Standards - the company is asking to not be placed under environmental laws that exist for post-PAMA companies, something that they should have attained in 2004 ( please read my blog on the history of Doe Run to understand this).  The letter is very unspecific about this.  I don´t know to which rules they are referring.
4) This is the most troubling.  I read that the government is asking for the company to follow its timeline that the company received in Oct 2009, but it is not and the government is levying fines.  The company´s argument is that these fines can only be levied at the end of the new 30 month PAMA period that was approved in Oct 2009.  This is asking the government to leave the company alone to do what they wish until the end of that period.  That is not acceptable.

I do agree that it would be against the state and country´s interest to have the state "squeezing Doe Run for every cent they can legally get" but it would not be prudent for the state to bend again and allow for the company to evade paying what they owe and completing promises that they made 13 years ago.

I hope that this helps, but even more opens the conversation.  Please comment.  Also, scroll down and take the survey! Thank you.

Boys

Boys, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

After completing their flour throwing traditional dace at the 2nd Earth Day Fair in San Juan de Lurigancho, two boys smile. They were part of a day of dances, rock bands, food, skits, and general merriment. For more information, please read the latest edition of La Retama, the newsletter for the Red Uniendo Manos Peru.

All Smiles

All Smiles, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

Kids from our Kids for La Oroya group (called CAMBIALO) smile. They are participating in projects in La Oroya, but also have skype dates with kids from New York and other places in the US. For more information on the project check out kidsforlaoroya.blogspot.com

El Mecurio

El Mecurio, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

This Saturday (May 8th) is World Fair Trade Day. Please check out this link to the Eco-Journey Blog by my friend Katie Holmes of the PC(USA) on the need for Fair Trade. This picture is of the women of El Mecurio, an artisan group based out of Huancavelica, Perú. You can read a little bit about their lives in the last edition of the Red Uniendo Manos´ Newsletter, La Retama (English, Español) or buy some of their stuffed animals at Partners for Just Trade. So this saturday, please take a second to sit down and think about whether your trade is fair and how to make it even mroe so.

Barefoot

Barefoot, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

On May 2nd, CENCA held an Earth Day Fair (Earth Day was a week earlier, but the date didn`t work so well with schedules). At this fair, there were various contests from the best meal (cooked by local women), sketches about the need for community activism, bands, artisan work, and dances done by local schools. This was one of the dances. I believe it origonated from the Ayacucho region. It was truly beautiful.

Tejiendo

Tejiendo, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

A woman knits leg warmers in the village of Huanayay near Huancavelica, Peru. She is a member of the Huanayay artisan group who partners with the Bridge of Hope Fair Trade Program and I took this picture during a visit in Feb. 2010.

Telando

Telando, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

A boy from the village of Huayanay works on a blanket on a loom. These looms were built by the community and are used to produce blankets, shalls, scarfs and other the like out of sheep and alpaca wool. They can be purchased from the Bridge of Hope program (http://fairtradeperu.com/). They are some of the softest blankets and scarfs that I have ever felt.

Dresses

Dresses, originally uploaded by jtobiason08.

The classic andean woman wears 3-7 layers of dresses. During my travels, I have seen so many women dressed like this, but had never seen them for sale. So when we were in Ayacucho for Good Friday, I walked into the market and found these hanging and couldn't not take a picture. It is another of my film shots taken on Kodak 100 film.

Call for help in La Oroya

As many of you know, I have been working on a project in La Oroya for quite some time, but now we would love you to join in if you can.  If you are a teacher, student, youth leader or just work with kids, please read this blog entry by my team member Anna Gray and consider joining up.  Also, below there is lots of data explaining more of why we are doing what we are doing.

http://annainhuancayo.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/la-oroya-needs-your-attention/#comments

The Doe Run Plant in La Oroya